n is the only power in the Middle East." In response to a question about whether he thinks the larger Middle-Eastern power of Israel will attack, he simply shrugs his shoulders, saying, "Ehh, anything is possible." Not all Iranians would agree with his rationale, but many agree with his conclusions. "We are surrounded by countries that have been invaded by the US [Iraq and Afghanistan] and nuclear powers all over [Pakistan and Israel], plus the US is giving arms to all these other countries [ the recently announced arms deal from the US to Saudi Arabia has captured much of the news coverage in the Middle East for days], so if we ever even came close to a weapon like that we would be killed."

The difference in treatment of nuclear and non-nuclear powers is not lost on Iranians, as Vice President Esfandiar Rahim-Mashaei states clearly: "The US invaded iraq, why? What about North Korea?" He is also very clear, though, on Iran's intentions not to have its nuclear program weaponized: "If we try and get a nuclear weapon we would be attacked, we know this; but if we already had one then we would not be."

At the Peace Museum in Tehran, a veteran of the Iran/Iraq war asked "Why does America get to have nuclear power, but not Iran?" He went on to say, "Do we not have the same rights as Americans? Are we not a nation? Which is the country that has used a nuclear weapon?" Many Iranians, especially veterans, echo his observations. There is a feeling of national unity very similar to that of Americans, and it has remained strong after the eight years of war between Iraq and Iran, much the same way that America was invigorated with national pride after the September 11 attacks.

On July 25, the Tehran-based English language newspaper "The Iran Times" published an article saying that the supreme leader of Iran has issued an order to the Iranian president that he is not allowed to produce a nuclear weapon, and furthermore that all Iranian nuclear aims will be peaceful. An Iranian man sipping coffee with his breakfast reads over the article and explains how much power the Supreme Leader has. "The supreme leader has the real power after the revolution. He controls the Republican Guard and the Guardian Council, so his orders are law." The Republican Guard is similar to the Special Forces in the United States, but is under direct control of the Supreme Leader. A young man in Yazd commented on Iranian presidential power: "He really has no power; he is a figurehead." Whether or not this is true, the Iranian people believe it.

While passing a nuclear facility, Tom, an American tourist, wonders aloud, "What would happen to that town we just came from if this was bombed?" He was referring to a quaint village whose lineage is traced back five thousand years. The anti-aircraft guns along the road surrounding the nuclear facility give the air an even colder chill than the mountain air and the rare summer rain that falls to the warm earth, creating a layer of fog around your feet. Other than the guns, there would be no sign that this property is any different from other factories throughout the countryside. The landscape lacks the intrusive "Simpsons-esq" power plant with the industrial smoke stacks browned from rust that one might imagine. Instead, the complex could simply be a shoe factory, as small tan buildings are surrounded by desert and a mountain range as the backdrop.

Despite having the world's third-largest oil reserve, UN sanctions (instigated under US pressure) have forced Iran to look into other forms of energy. With its lack of refineries and an embargo on American products, to include parts for both refineries, Iran's oil does little to help the average Iranian. This embargo has forced flights to become more expensive and even starting to become rare with a lack of plane parts and jet fuel, but also has forced the rationing of gas in the cities. The people of Iran feel that nuclear power could be a good way to get over their power shortage without giving in to the West. On the birthday of the eighth Imam, a woman in Qum (the burial place of the Imam's sister and one of the holiest cities for Shiite muslims) elaborates: "Normally a lot more people come for the celebration and to worship, but with no petrol we cannot come from as far away." The women was, of course, referring to Iranians, as travelers from Iraq and across the Muslim world were able to visit the mausoleum and mosque that day.

With Washington officials continuing tough talk toward Iran, and Iranian leaders needing to save face in a showdown with America, there seems to be a staring match neither is prepared to lose.

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