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Seeing The Effects Of Global Warming In The Arctic

Don Shelby Reporting

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yde River on Baffin Island. It is a place where global warming threatens not only the polar bear but the people who live there.

Above the Arctic Circle is one of the most forbidding and beautiful places on earth. The frozen silence of the land of ice and snow can be warmed by the laughter of Inuit children.

There is immediate evidence of global warming when looking out the window of the airplane. The ice should still be frozen solid this time of year, but the break-up and melt is coming earlier and earlier to Baffin Island and the people who make their life on the ice.

After landing, Shelby joined up with Steger's Global Warming 101 expedition, where the effects of climate change have already altered part of Steger's route.

"We were going to cross what is called the Cumberland South, 50 miles across, 150 miles long," Steger said. "Normally you just go right across to get to the village of Pangnirtung, but that entire area was open up this year, it totally broke up in January."

There's also a lot less snow than in previous years. Glaciers once covered the now-exposed mountain faces, but the real story could be better told by the Inuit people who have been living global warming for the past 20 years.

"The ice condition is not stable anymore," said Simon Qamanirq, who hunts for his community.

Qamanirq said he is mad in some ways at people in the south for what is happening, but he doesn't dwell on it because he can't help the situation.

"This is ground zero for global warming." Steger explained. "The Inuit culture is totally changing. They're going to adapt to this, but they have no voice and we want to give these people a voice, but I think more than that. We need to hear that global warming is affecting a culture, it's affecting people."

Steger has invited some high-powered help. Ed Viesturs has climbed the world's 14 highest mountains, including six times to the top of Everest.

"We read about global warming," Viesturs said. "We're not as affected by it yet. So I don't think we take it seriously or a lot of people don't, but if we can show that there are people living this right now. They are living the changes and it is affecting their lives."

The team is headquartered in an unremarkable house on an inlet to the Arctic Ocean called Clyde River. It is a busy place where sleds need to be packed, routes need to be planned and in one corner is Sir Richard Branson, one of the world's most famous and richest men.

Branson has offered $25 million to anyone who can find a solution to the build-up of atmospheric carbon dioxide, which is one of the causes of global warming.

"They can see how much thinner the ice is getting," Branson said. "They're losing fellow elders through the ice."

The night before the teams head off to cross the fifth largest island on Earth, the Inuit of Clyde River gather in the community hall for a feast.

Caribou meat and Arctic char is spread out on tarps, brought in by hunters to share. They gather to thank Steger, his team and Branson.

The Mayor said how much it means to his people that their story is being told to the world.

"Some people predict that the Arctic has not got that many more years and look at the beauty of it. It would be too sad for words to see it disappear," Branson said.

"Ironically, you know what the people up here say? 'We will adapt, but can the people of the south adapt to this?" Steger said.

The south is us and global warming seems like only a distant threat. For Steger, the stakes are higher and the danger already here, especially for the Inuit people.

"If it gets worse, what's going to happen to the Inuit?" Shelby asked.

"I don't know, that's a good question," Qamanirq said. "But maybe we'll have to stop traveling in the winter then."

There is no false distinction as "them and us" for Steger. For him, it is "we".

Steger's group plans to finish their expedition next week in the town of Igloolik.

Don Shelby would like to thank Jerry Stenger for helping photograph the mission. Stenger has been Steger's go-to guy for years and has sacrificed time with his 1-year-old son and his wife, Jeanine, to record the expedition.